(Updated May 2025)

Looking back, I realize I always took for granted that I used to live relatively close to a national park. Then I moved to New England, where the nearest “mountains” weren’t really mountains and the nearest national park was a full day’s drive away, and I realized how much I missed it.

So when we moved to Colorado, one of the things I was most excited for was to be somewhat close to Rocky Mountain National Park.

In the years since, we’ve made at least two dozen trips to Rocky. We’ve done scenic drives, hikes, overnight backpacking trips, day trips, camping trips, and just about everything in between. I’ve come to know the park pretty well, which means it’s high time to revamp this post. With this new version, I’ll provide a much more comprehensive overview of what to know and what to see when visiting Rocky Mountain National Park.

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Table of Contents

• Entering the park
• Timed entry permits
• Traveling within the park
• Hiking in Rocky
• Trail Ridge Road
• Old Fall River Road
• Bear Lake Corridor
• Wild Basin
• Outlying Areas
• Camping in Rocky
• Backpacking in Rocky
• Weather in Rocky
• Wilderness Safety
• Winter in Rocky

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Entering the park

Visiting Rocky requires a $30/car daily or $35/car weekly entrance fee, or you can present an America the Beautiful pass. Rocky has multiple entrance stations. The most popular are the east side Beaver Meadows and Fall River entrance stations in Estes Park, as these provide access to Trail Ridge Road from the east. The Kawuneeche entrance station provides access to Trail Ridge Road from the west. Note that entrance stations only accept debit/credit cards for payment, though cash can be used to purchase your entrance pass at the visitor centers at all three locations.

Other park access points include Long Draw, Dunraven/North Fork, Cow Creek, Lumpy Ridge, East Portal, Lily Lake/Twin Sisters, Longs Peak, Wild Basin, East Inlet and North Inlet. Though you do not pass through an official entrance station to reach most of these parking lots, they are located inside the park so payment is required.

You may also need a timed entry reservation (more information below) to access these locations.

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Timed entry permits

From Memorial Day weekend to mid-October, you may also need a timed entry permit for each day you plan to visit Rocky. Timed entry permits are designed to reduce crowding and distribute visitors more evenly throughout the park. There are two options: (1) Timed Entry and (2) Timed Entry+. Roughly 60% of permits are released 1-2 months in advance while the remaining 40% are made available at 7:00pm the night before. You do need to be prompt, but we’ve never had an issue obtaining our desired permits during either window.

The Timed Entry+ allows access to all parts of the park, including the most popular section which is the Bear Lake corridor. Timed entry permit reservations are required from 5:00am-6:00pm daily, or you may enter outside that window without a reservation. When you purchase a permit, you select a two-hour entry window; you must enter the park and cross through the Bear Lake timed entry gate during this time frame. There will likely be long lines at both stations, so plan accordingly, as you will be denied entry either before or after your entry window. However, once you have entered, you may leave and return as many times as you want throughout the day.

If you have campground reservations on the east side of the park, this provides access to the Bear Lake corridor beginning at 1:00pm on the day of your arrival. If you’re camping on the west side of the park, Bear Lake access is not automatically included. More information about camping can be found below.

Keep in mind that a timed entry or campground reservation only allows entry to the Bear Lake corridor. It does not guarantee parking availability. Bear Lake and Glacier Gorge parking lots generally fill before dawn in the summer, and the park-n-ride typically fills by early-to-mid morning.

The Timed Entry permit allows access to all parts of the park except Bear Lake corridor. Permits are required from 9:00am-2:00pm daily, or you can enter before or after that window without one. You must pass through an entrance station during your allotted time slot, and then may leave and return as many times as you want throughout the day.

While the other areas of the park are lesser used than Bear Lake, many parking lots do still fill by mid-morning and your reservation does not guarantee parking availability. Campsite reservations anywhere in the park provide access to all non-Bear Lake areas of the park beginning at 1:00pm on the day of your arrival.

If you have an overnight backpacking permit, this is your timed entry permit and you may enter the park (and the Bear Lake corridor, if needed) to reach your trailhead at any time on the first day of your reservation.

If you will not be passing through an entrance station en route to your parking lot, note that you must print and display your timed entry permit or overnight parking pass (if backpacking) on your dashboard.

Here is more information on the timed entry system and here is where you can reserve a permit.

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Traveling within the park

All park roads are either paved or maintained dirt/gravel and are passable by any car (though RVs and trailers are restricted from some roads). Park roads are narrow, winding, and may be steep, with sheer drop-offs on one side. Speed limits, therefore, are slow, and travel through the park takes longer than you might expect.

Unfortunately, public transportation options are limited within Rocky. There is a free shuttle along the Bear Lake corridor, but the remainder of the park requires your own vehicle. Bear Lake shuttles run every 10-15 minutes from the Park-n-Ride and stop at Bierstadt, Glacier Gorge, and Bear Lake trailheads. We use this shuttle frequently and we’ve never had any issues with it. It operates daily from Memorial Weekend through mid-October.

The Moraine Park Shuttle runs along the Bear Lake corridor from Fern Lake to Sprague Lake. These shuttles are smaller and run less frequently, but can be used to access some of the less popular locations along the corridor. We’ve only used it once, but it allowed us to complete a nice point-to-point hike to a series of lakes. This shuttle operates daily from Memorial Day Weekend through mid-October.

Lastly, there is a summer hiker express shuttle that runs from Estes Park, outside the park’s east entrance, to the Bear Lake Park-n-Ride. Reservations are required, however timed-entry permits are not needed if you enter the park on this shuttle. We’ve never taken this shuttle so I can’t provide any additional insight.

If you don’t have your own car, consider taking the Bustang bus up to Estes Park and catching the hiker shuttle. It won’t get you everywhere in Rocky, but it will get you into the park for only $15.

Here is more information on the free park shuttles.

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Hiking in Rocky

There are over 350 miles (560 km) of trails in Rocky, ranging from short accessible paths to steep rocky trails to a challenging all-day route to the summit of 14er Longs Peak. In other words, there’s something here for everyone. Dogs are not allowed on any trails in the park, with the exception of ADA trained service animals.

In general, trails in Rocky are well-marked with clear signage and are typically visible and easy to follow. In the summer, you’ll be walking on rocks, roots, and dirt which quickly turns slippery and muddy when it rains. In spring and fall (and sometimes even in the summer), patches of snow and ice may obscure parts of the trail.

Sturdy shoes with good traction are recommended year round, with microspikes and even snowshoes needed in snowy conditions. Both can be rented in Estes Park for a small fee. Many people (including us) also find hiking poles helpful.

We have hiked many of the trails in Rocky. Click the links throughout this post for more information and photos of these individual trails. You can also find my complete collection of Rocky hiking posts here.

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Trail Ridge Road

Trail Ridge Road is the only east-west road through the park, and it’s an absolutely stunning drive. This paved, narrow, winding road climbs to an elevation of 12,183 feet (3713 m) and crosses the Continental Divide before dropping down the opposite side, making it the highest continuous paved road in the US!

This may not be the best option for those with an intense fear of heights or exposure. If you can handle it, though, this is an activity I highly recommend. Plan at least 2-3 hours to drive the road from end to end, though it can easily take all day if you stop at every viewpoint along the way.

(Pro tip: when you’re going downhill, shift into a lower gear to avoid burning out your brakes)

Entering from the east, you’ll arrive fairly quickly at Deer Ridge Junction, which is the starting point for the Deer Mountain hike.

From here, Trail Ridge Road continues to the left, ascending in a series of switchbacks connected by two hairpin turns. At the first is the Hidden Valley picnic area (and sledding hill, in the winter!). The second is Many Parks Curve, and is worth the stop for the views.

Beyond this point, much of the road is above tree line. You may spot deer, elk, marmots, and pikas here. There are also some short trails that depart from various pullouts. As you’re in the tundra, where plants are extremely fragile and slow-growing, please be extra careful to stay on the path.

The highest point on the road is just south of the Alpine Visitor Center, which itself sits at around 11,800 feet (3595 m). From here, begin the descent down the west side of Trail Ridge Road, navigating the first of a handful of tight turns. After a straighter stretch of road, you’ll come to a parking area at Milner Pass and Poudre (pronounced POO-der) Lake. The hike to Mount Ida departs from here. This is one of the more difficult hikes in the park, but also one of my favorites.

After a couple more viewpoints, some more hairpin turns, and quite a lot of elevation loss, you’ll find yourself in the Kawuneeche Valley, with the Never Summer Mountains rising to the west. I haven’t spent as much time on this side of the park simply because it’s a decent drive to get all the way up and over there, but we did secure a backpacking permit for the Never Summers this year and I’m very excited!

The Kawuneeche Valley is cut by the Colorado River, and boy does the Colorado River look drastically different up here near its headwaters than it does down south in the Grand Canyon.

Further along is the parking area for the Holzwarth Historic Site. This old ranch was founded in 1917 under the Homestead Act by a family of German immigrants. They eventually expanded to include guest cabins and turned it into a dude ranch. In 1974, the ranch and adjoining land was sold to The Nature Conservancy before becoming part of Rocky. Today at the site you can tour some of the buildings, chat with rangers and volunteers about life on the ranch 100+ years ago, and try your hand at some old-fashioned games and lassoing.

Continuing along Trail Ridge Road, there are a handful of trailheads I’ve yet to visit. Most of them lead quite a distance into the backcountry, and are better suited for backpacking than day hiking.

And finally, we’ve arrived at the Kawuneeche Visitor Center and the west entrance. Just outside the park is the town of Grand Lake. A couple trails – North Inlet and East Inlet – depart from the eastern edge of town and head many miles into the park.

Just 0.6 miles (1 km) up East Inlet Trail is Adams Falls, one of the most easily accessible waterfalls in the park.

Continue another 1 mile (1.6 km) to East Meadow for a lovely view and, if you have the proper permits, a nice calm fishing spot. Beyond this point, travel up East Inlet is best suited for those in search of a very long day hike or overnight backpacking trip (backpacking permit required).

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Old Fall River Road

A second, more primitive route to the top is Old Fall River Road. This was the only route to the summit for about 20 years until construction of Trail Ridge Road was complete. Today, it’s a one-way dirt road from Sheep Lakes/Horseshoe Park up to the Alpine Visitor Center, where it connects with Trail Ridge Road. It’s open to vehicle traffic from approximately June-September (weather-dependent), though vehicles over 25 feet (7.6 m) in length and vehicles with trailers are not allowed.

The road is reasonably well-maintained and AWD, 4WD, or high clearance is not necessary. However, you should expect hairpin turns, steep drop-offs, potholes, and, if it’s recently rained, lots of mud. It may be slow going. Also, if you are traveling below the speed limit, please use the pullouts to allow those behind you to pass.

The first stop on Fall River Road is the Lawn Lake Trailhead, which is the starting point for hikes to Ypsilon and Lawn Lakes. While Ypsilon Lake can be completed as a day hike (post coming soon!), Lawn Lake is best suited for backpacking.

The next two attractions of Old Fall River Road are an alluvial fan and waterfall formed by catastrophic floods in 1985 and 2013. A little further up the road is a view of Chasm Falls.

From here, unless you’re planning to head up Chapin Creek Trail to the Mummy Range Mountains, it’s really just about the scenery. If you are up for some rugged 12,000+ foot (3660+ m) summits, though, the CCY Route might be worth the hike

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Bear Lake Corridor

Aside from Trail Ridge Road, and main attraction on the east side of Rocky – and the most popular part of the entire park – is the Bear Lake corridor. Bear Lake Road branches off to the south (left) just past the Beaver Meadows entrance station. The road winds through a pine forest before curving around and descending into Moraine Park. This lovely wide open view is one of my favorites in all seasons. In the fall, it’s the most popular spot to hear the elk bugling.

Follow Moraine Park road to its terminus for the Cub Lake and Fern Lake Trailheads.

The next stop on Bear Lake Road is the Hollowell Park picnic area which, in my experience, is a place to find some solitude (and a nice view) even on the busiest days.

The park-n-ride for the park shuttles (mentioned previously) is the next stop, followed shortly by Sprague Lake. I have this terrible habit of assuming short hikes won’t be worth it. Then I hiked the Sprague Lake Trail and was proven very, very wrong. It’s only about a 2 minute walk to the water’s edge, though I highly recommend walking the entirety of the accessible path encircling the lake. It’s lovely.

Next up is the Bierstadt Lake trailhead, which is one of the lesser-traveled locations in the Bear Lake area. The parking lot is small and fills quickly, but the free shuttles will get you here.

The real reason most people head into the Bear Lake corridor, though, is for the hikes at the end, namely those departing from Glacier Gorge trailhead and Bear Lake trailhead. This area of the park is popular for a reason, and though it’s guaranteed to be crowded, if you go early and you’re willing to hike a little farther, you can leave the worst of it behind. A few of my favorite photos are below, along with links to all the hikes we’ve done in this area.

Glacier Gorge Trailhead:

• Alberta Falls/Mills, Jewel, and Black Lakes (summer)
• Black Lake (winter)
• Loch Vale/Lake of Glass/Sky Pond (summer)
• Sky Pond (winter)
• Mills Lake and Loch Vale (winter)
• Andrews Glacier
• Upper Glacier Gorge Lakes (backpacking)

Bear Lake Trailhead:

• Nymph/Dream/Emerald Lakes
• Lake Haiyaha (summer)
• Lake Haiyaha (winter)
• Lake Helene/Two Rivers Lake
• Flattop Mountain and Hallett Peak

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Wild Basin

The only other area of the park that requires passage through an entrance station is Wild Basin – the southeast entrance, near the town of Allenspark. A maintained (albeit sometimes potholey) dirt road travels 2 miles (3.2 km) to the Wild Basin Trailhead, with stops along the way at Sandbeach Trailhead and Finch Lake Trailhead.

The other three main waterfalls in the park – Copeland Falls, Calypso Cascades, and Ouzel Falls – can be reached from Wild Basin Trailhead. In addition, numerous lakes line the valleys in the basin. Most of these would be very long day hikes, but they make good backpacking destinations. Links to my accounts of the ones we’ve hiked so far, as well as a few photos, are below.

• Sandbeach Lake
• Finch and Pear Lakes
• Thunder Lake
• Lion/Snowbank Lakes

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Outlying areas

The remaining portions of the park are considered outlying areas because you do not pass through an entrance station to reach them. That being said, entrance fees are always required and the Park Access timed entry permit is needed during the designated windows (place your park pass or fee receipt plus your timed entry permit on your dash).

Continuing north from Wild Basin, we have:

• Longs Peak Area, home to Longs Peak, Estes Cone, and my favorite hike in the park – Chasm Lake
• Lily Lake/Twin Sisters Area, home to Lily Lake, Lily Mountain (this one is actually outside the park and does not require a fee or pass), and Twin Sisters Peaks
• East Portal, the starting point for this loop
• Lumpy Ridge, the trailhead for Gem Lake and the Lumpy Ridge Loop
• Cow Creek, the starting point for trails to Bridal Veil Falls and West Creek Falls
• Dunraven/North Fork, the northernmost access point on the east side, which I have not been to
• Lastly, the Long Draw entrance comes in from the northwest. I have not been here, either

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Camping in Rocky

There are 4 reservable campgrounds in the park – Glacier Basin, Moraine Park, and Aspenglen on the east side and Timber Creek on the west side – all of which fill to capacity nearly every night. I’ve camped at Moraine Park, Glacier Basin, and Aspenglen; the first two are large, with a variety of sites. Aspenglen is much smaller and quieter. All have running water and bathrooms, but there are no hookups or showers in the park. Cost is $35/night plus a reservation fee.

Longs Peak Campground is the only first-come-first-serve campground in the park. This is a small, tents-only campground that fills quickly and does not have potable water. If you plan to camp here, come prepared and be sure to have a backup plan. There are other campgrounds located in the national forest lands surrounding the entire park.

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Backpacking in Rocky

We always aim to reserve at least one backpacking permit per summer and, given the number of lengthy trails in the park, it will be years before we run out of options. While backcountry camping is available year round, the park is covered in snow most of the year so we prefer to go in the summer.

Summer backcountry permits are highly competitive. They go on sale every year on March 1st at 8:00am MST and the most sought after ones sell out in seconds. In one instance, it took me three years to finally get the one I wanted. I learned quickly to always have a backup plan (or two or three).

Backcountry permits are specific; you must stay at the location you’ve selected on the date(s) you’ve selected, and you must stay in an established site. Some locations have 3-4 sites while others have only 1 (these are often the most competitive ones). There are group sites for groups larger than 7 and stock sites for those who will be hiking with a pack animal. There is also an accessible site at Sprague Lake.

A handful of sites have privies but most do not, and none have potable water. Therefore, you must bring some kind of water filtration system. You should also carry a Kula Cloth, WAG bags (for sites with no privy), and dog poop bags for packing out your toilet paper and feminine hygeine products. These things should never be left behind, buried, or burned.

Speaking of burning, campfires are not allowed at any backcountry sites in Rocky. All cooking should be done using a portable camp stove. Also, hard-sided bear canisters are mandatory for backpackers. If you don’t own a bear canister, they can be rented locally.

Note also that permits must be picked up in-person at one of the Wilderness Offices (Beaver Meadows or Kawuneeche) no more than 30 days prior to your trip. The offices do not open until 7:30-8:00am, meaning you may need to make a separate trip to the park or drive up the night before to pick up your permit so you can begin your hike first thing in the morning.

Additional information about backpacking in Rocky can be found here. Click here for information on backpacking gear, tips, and guidelines.

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Weather in Rocky

Weather in Rocky changes quickly, and it’s not unusual to start a hike beneath cloudless skies and end up getting rained on. Even in the middle of summer, storms roll in and temperatures drop quickly. I never set foot on the trails without rain gear (top and bottom) and extra layers in my backpack.

Speaking of storms, afternoon thunderstorms are an almost daily occurrence in the summer. They generally pass within 20-30 minutes, but you absolutely do not want to be at high elevation when they roll in because there’s nowhere to take shelter from the lightning. The best rule is to always plan to be back down below tree line by noon. But keep an eye on the sky and have an escape plan, because sometimes the storms roll in earlier than predicted.

Even when it’s not stormy, it’s likely to be chilly and windy throughout the park, especially at the higher elevations. The temperature generally drops by about 5°F (3°C) per 1000 feet (305 m) increase in altitude. Meaning, even in the height of summer, it rarely exceeds 60°F (15°C) above treeline. If you’re going to venture away from the car, be sure you have some extra layers and maybe even a hat and gloves with you.

The sun is also much more intense at altitude, and sunburns can develop in as little as 10-15 minutes, so bring/wear adequate sun protection. Despite being pretty good about wearing sunscreen, I have gotten sunburned in every single month of the year in Colorado. In the winter, remember that sun will reflect off the snow and can burn places such as the underside of your chin.

And while we’re on the topic of altitude, it’s important to be aware of the dangers it can pose for those not acclimated – and even for those who are. Dehydration happens easily due to the dry air. You will be losing more water and electrolytes in sweat than usual. And you may not feel as hungry or thirsty as you ascend. This is still a constant struggle for me when I’m at elevation, and I have to force myself to eat and drink regularly.

Biologically speaking, your metabolism will adapt at high elevation to prefer carbohydrates as a main source of energy. Simple carbohydrates – meaning, sugars – are preferred for easy digestion and quick availability of energy. Be sure you have a source of electrolytes with you as well, such as fruit, veggies, salty snacks, or specialty electrolyte products.

Lastly, oxygen availability drops as you ascend, meaning your stamina will be reduced and even “easy” hikes become more challenging. You may feel yourself gasping for air and your heart may be beating more rapidly than you would expect based on your level of exertion. This is generally considered normal when you’re not acclimated to elevation, and can largely be overcome by taking your time and resting when needed.

However, altitude sickness is a real thing, and it can be fatal. It’s important to know the signs and symptoms. Some of the most common are headache, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, and confusion or disorientation. If you begin experiencing these, descend to a lower elevation as quickly as possible.

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Wilderness Safety

Cell phone service is very limited in the park, meaning if something goes wrong, help is a long way away. If you’re planning even a short hike, in addition to the clothing outlined above, you should also carry food, water, and the ten essentials. If you are backpacking or just planning to travel way into the backcountry on a day trip, consider carrying an SOS device. It’s also always important to let someone know where you’re going and when you plan to return.

Potential hazards you may encounter in Rocky include loose rocks, roots, snow, and ice that could cause injury, falling trees and tree branches (it’s often quite windy in the park), fast-flowing and very cold water that can be fatal should you slip and fall in, lightning, hail, and wild animals.

Rocky is home to bighorn sheep, deer, elk, moose, bobcats, cougars, and black bears, as well as many smaller animals such as badgers, marmots, and pikas. While all the animals are wild and should not be approached, touched, or fed (including chipmunks and squirrels), it’s especially important to keep your distance from the larger animals. A good guideline is the rule of thumb: extend your arm and make a thumbs-up sign. Then close one eye. If you can completely block the animal from view with your thumb, you’re far enough away. If not, you’re too close.

While most people are concerned about encountering a bear, you’re actually far more likely to encounter deer, elk, or moose in Rocky. There are only a handful of black bears in the park, and my only two sightings have been from a distance as the bear was running away. Deer, elk, and moose, on the other hand, frequently wander through picnic areas and campsites or meander along trails. Truthfully, I’m far more scared of moose than any other animal. That being said, I do carry bear spray, just in case.

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Winter in Rocky

The more we visit, the more I realize I might actually love Rocky most in the winter. Not only is it so much less crowded, but there’s something so enjoyable about standing on a frozen lake and gazing in awe at the snow-covered landscape shimmering in the sunshine.

Of course, it’s also a lot colder in the winter. The wind is frigid and gusty. Sometimes, you take a step and the snow swallows your entire leg. And, of course, there are some places that you really just can’t get to in the winter, either due to road closures, distance, or avalanche danger.

It’s also harder to follow the trails and easier to get caught in a bad situation. But if you’re properly prepared with the right gear and knowledge (more information here), visiting Rocky in the winter is a worthwhile experience. I’ve linked to most of our winter hikes already, but there are other winter recreation opportunities as well. During our winter visits to the park, we frequently encounter backcountry skiers and ice climbers. While we’ve not done either of those activities, we have cross-country skied Trail Ridge Road, and it was a lot of fun.

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Phew! If you made it all the way to the end, thank you for sticking with me. I hope this is a useful guide for anyone planning a visit to Rocky, and feel free to drop any questions in the comments below.