After summiting the North Dakota high point the day before, Chelsea and I set out to stand on the highest point of South Dakota. Our hotel was only about 30 minutes from the trailhead, so this one involved much less driving. The hike, however, was a little more substantial.
The highest point in South Dakota is Black Elk Peak, formerly called Harney Peak. It was renamed in 2016 in honor of Black Elk, a prominent member of the Oglala Lakota tribe. The Black Hills are their homeland and the mountain is considered sacred. Given that General William S. Harney was a military commander who facilitated the slaughter of many Lakota women and children, I’m glad the name was changed.
The main trailhead for this hike is located in the heart of the Black Hills at Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park. Sylvan Lake is a really pretty area… when it’s not shrouded in fog. Unfortunately, the copious amounts of rain the previous couple days had turned everything into a damp, misty mess. Not exactly the ideal conditions for climbing to a high point. But it was the only day we had so we didn’t really have a choice. At least it had stopped thunderstorming.
There are two trails to the summit: Black Elk Trail #4 and #9. Either can be completed as an out-and-back hike or they can be combined into an ~8 mile (13 km) loop. We opted for the loop, heading up Trail #9 and hiking in a clockwise direction. This is the recommended direction of travel for a more gradual climb. About a mile into the hike, the trail crosses into the Black Elk Wilderness. It’s a gradual but steady ascent through the forest, only emerging from the trees on the final stretch to the summit.
Unfortunately, the fog hadn’t lifted so we reached the summit and found ourselves looking out at the clouds. I was bummed about the lack of views because the Black Hills is a really pretty area and on a clear day we would have been able to see all the way into Wyoming, Nebraska, and Montana. Alas…
Although we didn’t get to see much, we did enjoy the large rocky summit. This includes the fire tower, which is a really neat structure. It hasn’t been used since the 1960s, but it’s open for exploration. This includes a basement, the main floor, and the upper floor. It was a little damp and dark inside, but we enjoyed the chance to look around and climb to all the floors.
Fire tower 
Photo by Chelsea
Photo by Chelsea
We descended on Trail #4, opting to take the short detour to Cathedral Spires. There are other possible side trips from this route as well, but we skipped them due to the lingering fog and lack of views. Cathedral Spires, however, was visible even with the low hanging clouds. And the fog was even nice enough to lift for a few minutes while we were there!
Back at the parking lot, we still had much of the day remaining so we spent it exploring Custer State Park by car. There are three scenic byways through the park that can be connected into an ~40 mile (64 km) loop. We drove them all.
First up was the Needles Highway, an iconic narrow, winding road that climbs through the rock spires that are so ubiquitous in the Black Hills. It tops out at a high point that’s passable only by driving through an 8×8 foot (2.5 x 2.5 m) tunnel. There are a handful of other tunnels as well that are slightly larger… but if your car won’t fit through this one, you won’t be driving the Needles Highway.
The Needle’s Eye 
Needle’s Eye Tunnel (8×8 feet)
From the southern end of the Needles Highway, we connected with the Wildlife Loop Road. We began by detouring up to the Mount Coolidge fire tower, at which point we found ourselves between two layers of clouds… something I’m not sure has ever happened to me before except maybe in an airplane.
The main attraction of the Wildlife Loop Road – as the name probably suggests – is the wildlife. Specifically, burros and bison. The burros are not native to the Black Hills. They’re descendants of those that used to carry visitors to the summit of Black Elk Peak. When the rides were discontinued the animals were simply released into the park. We were lucky to see a small group of burros along the road. Far more numerous are the bison. Custer State Park maintains a herd of about 1500 animals. As it was spring, many of the mamas had recently given birth so we got to see lots of baby bison. We also watched two adults practice fighting. It was pretty cool to be close enough (from the safety of our car) to hear their horns clacking together.
The last scenic byway is Iron Mountain Road, which actually departs Custer State Park and heads north to Mount Rushmore. We didn’t stop at Mount Rushmore itself since we’d both been there before, but we were able to see it from the road and from a scenic view at the high point of the highway.
That wraps up our Dakota high pointing adventure. And what an adventure it was. Intense thunderstorms, lots of rain, endless fog, getting stuck in the mud. Things didn’t entirely go according to plan. But we climbed both summits and saw some other neat things along the way, so all in all I’d say it was a success.
State highpoint #11: check!
The Important Stuff:
- Getting there: the trailhead for Black Elk Peak departs from Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park, South Dakota
- Fees and passes: $20/car for a one week pass to Custer State Park (unless you go on the annual free weekend, which conveniently coincided with our trip)
- Hiking: depending on which trail(s) you take, this hike is about 7-8 miles (11-13 km) round trip with about 1500 feet (460 m) of elevation gain; altitude at the summit is 7242 feet (2207 m)
- Where to stay: the Black Hills is a reasonably popular tourist destination so there is a ton of lodging available including camping, cabins, and hotels
- Other: during peak season this parking lot fills quickly, so plan to get an early start. Even in May in subpar weather, the lot was overflowing when we got back to the car around noon
Handstands Around the World 
Looks like a wonderful place for a hike. It’s a shame that the fog spoilt some of the views for you, definitely makes for some pretty and atmospheric photos though!
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It did give the landscape a very eerie vibe!
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Such a beautiful sight! The greens, the mountains. So glad i could see it through your eyes. Keep handstanding, my dear.
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Great post, awesome photos.
One thing about the fog you can appreciate the close up more. Looks like an amazing place
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The Black Hills are a highly underrated area!
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I love those misty views in their own way – moody and beautiful 🙂
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It’s too bad that the fog obstructed your views, but it makes your pictures look really pretty. And hey, at least it wasn’t raining!
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Sometimes “at least it wasn’t raining” truly is a win 😂
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I really enjoy hiking in the fog. There is something mysterious and mystical about these rock formations hiding behind a blanket of fog and only slowly revealing themselves as you get closer!
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Very true, it always reminds me a little of Lord of the Rings!
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What a neat area – the Cathedral Spires look particularly atmospheric in the mist. Very cool!
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Thankfully, the fog cleared enough to at least make out most of what you should be seeing! It’s certain that overcast skies and fog are the bane of the traveler’s existence, as it comes down to timing of when you arrive during the time of year. You did the best you could, and it did work out! The baby bison were also an *adorable* plus! 🙂
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Yes, annoying though the fog was, it definitely could have been worse. At least there wasn’t snow or hail or lightning. And I agree, baby bison are adorable!
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Neat wildlife encounter, you look so close to the bisons.
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We were pretty close, they were right next to the road. But also I believe the camera was zoomed in a bit as well. It was really neat!
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Love the Cathedral Spires photos, really cool. Never a fan of changing the names of places, even with the fact that they were named after people who made mistakes. Changing the name buries the past and means that we don’t learn from those mistakes going forward. Meaning it is likely that the same mistakes may return in the future.
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I do understand that perspective, we certainly as a nation are ignorant of many parts of history. But on the other hand, we don’t name things after Hitler and everyone still learns about him. I do think we need a middle ground… if we change names perhaps we also include education on why rather than sweeping it under the rug. They did have a sign at Custer explaining the name change so hopefully that helps educate people on Gen. Harney and his actions.
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Wow, what a fantastic place to explore and hike through, especially with such an amazing, old stone fire lookout tower located at the summit. I’ve never seen such towering pinnacles, they look spectacular covered in the heavy fog! I am sorry you didn’t get to see the views, I had to use Google to see what they look like – the 360-degree panoramic views from the enclosed observation deck are certainly one of a kind! Thanks for sharing and have a nice day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Ahh the beauty of google and its street view feature 😊 Glad you were able to virtually enjoy the view!
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Too bad about the fog, but still some very pretty spots. You were only one state away from Minnesota. Do I have that post to look forward to soon? 🙂
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Sadly no, we didn’t go any further east on this trip. Another time!
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I’ve wanted to visit North Dakota for years (Covid-19 got in the way of our plans). You blog has rekindled my interest.
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The Dakotas have a surprising variety of landscapes, hopefully you can make it there soon!
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Well currently your government won’t let me cross the border (even though my government will let you into Canada) so next year is the earliest for us.
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Ahhh didn’t realize you’re in Canada. We had to postpone our wedding for that same reason (family in Canada) so I definitely share your annoyance. Hopefully it reopens soon!
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Awesome rock formations ! Nice place for a new handstand 🙂
The bison where a great “plus”.
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Cathedral Spires looks really atmospheric – I’m glad the fog lifted just enough for you to catch a glimpse of those rock formations ☺️ Needles Highway looks neat, too, and I love Chelsea’s photo of the baby bison on the Wildlife Loop Road.
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We were too, it was perfect timing… the clouds rolled back in as we were leaving the spires.
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What a breathtaking hiking trail! That handstand photo must be one of your most beautiful ones – love it! It’s a pity of the misty conditions (once again), but you’ve actually captured a lovely atmosphere 😊.
The Needles Highway is something else – how amazing is that road! Great post, thanks for sharing – I’ve thoroughly enjoyed this one!
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Thank you! I really enjoyed the Needles Highway, it’s such a unique landscape.
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We loved the Needles Highway! I wish we’d even known about the high point when we were there … heaven knows when we’ll get back to the Dakotas. I’m sorry your summit view was obscured (I totally feel your pain as I seem to specialize in foggy summits far from home), but honestly, I think the misty views are pretty cool. The wildlife shots are great, and your handstand in that small, stony spot made me nervous you’d tip over disastrously (or maybe that’s just what would happen if I tried a handstand in a small space! 🙂
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I didn’t know about it my first time there either (about 15 years ago now…), so it worked out well that I got to go back! Fortunately if I had tipped over I would have landed on a flat surface and not fallen off a cliff; maybe it looks more precarious in the photo than it actually was
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