Geologically speaking, the Apostle Islands were formed through glaciation and erosion. Over thousands of years during the last ice age, the glaciers advanced and deposited layer upon layer of sediment, and then carved out the enormous bowl that is now Lake Superior as they receded.
In the years since, the constant action of the waves has eroded away the softer layers of sediment in irregular patterns. What remains are the twenty-two Apostle Islands.
Three of the islands, along with some sections of the mainland, contain particularly soft layers stacked beneath more durable upper layers. The waves have carved out these softer layers while the harder ones remain more firmly intact, leaving behind sea stacks, arches, and caves.
The first photo I ever saw of the Apostle Islands was actually of a person kayaking through a sea cave, and I knew then that it was something I wanted to do one day.
Finally, that day had arrived!
Just as quickly, it vanished.
We were on the way to our tour company headquarters when I received a text that our excursion had been canceled due to large waves. Initially I was super bummed but, to be completely honest, after seeing how choppy the lake was I wasn’t really all that disappointed about the cancellation. Fighting those waves wouldn’t have been fun. And we still got to see the sea caves, so it all worked out in the end.
While most people come to Apostle Islands to experience the islands – which we did on day one – the mainland portion of the National Lakeshore seems to be mostly overlooked. But there’s actually a decent number of things worth seeing here.
For starters, there are multiple visitor centers, museums, and historic sites, including the Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center in Ashland, the Little Sand Bay Visitor Center, and the Apostle Islands Visitor Center in Bayfield, as well as the historic Old Iron Bridge and the (free!) Maritime Museum also located in Bayfield.
As you can probably imagine, life around the Apostle Islands has always relied heavily on fishing, and there are numerous roadside exhibits with information and old fishing boats. I don’t fish and I don’t eat fish, so I wasn’t super intent on diving headfirst into the nitty gritty details of the fishing industry, but I enjoyed spending a few minutes at each exhibit admiring the boats and learning the basics.
But for me, the highlight was definitely the sea caves!
The Lakeshore Trail departs from Meyers Beach and travels along the lakeshore for many miles, terminating at a backcountry campsite. But you don’t have to go all the way to the campsite to see the caves. You do have to walk a little ways, though, because the trail begins by meandering through the trees, set back from the water.
After about 1.4 miles (2.2 km), the trail curves around to the edge and you’ll find yourself standing at the top of the cliffs looking (a long way) down at – and sometimes down into – the caves.
There’s a whole string of viewpoints and I recommend going all the way to the end because the final one is, in my opinion, the best one.
That being said, be extremely careful here. You’re a long way up and the drop-offs are sheer and the rock is soft. The best safety advice I’ve ever received for situations like this is to never get closer to the edge than you are tall so that if you fall forward, you won’t tumble right over. If you want to get closer, drop down onto your hands and knees so you’re not as tall. In this case, there were also many large trees we could cling to for added stability.
We walked the entire length of the overlooks, marveling at the size and depth of the caves and the sounds of the water sloshing around inside of them. And as we watched the waves crash into the rocks, it was easy to see how the caves were created.
(Watch the videos below with the volume on for the full effect.)
We also marveled at the trees that were stubbornly clinging to life right at the very edge of the cliffs.
So while I didn’t get to fulfill my dream of kayaking through an Apostle Islands sea cave, looking down on them from above turned out to be much more appealing than accidentally capsizing and falling into freezing cold water while trying to maneuver a tandem sea kayak through the crashing waves.
And who knows? Maybe someday I’ll be back to give it another try.
The Important Stuff:
- Getting there: the mainland portion of Apostle Islands National Lakeshore spans along the coast of the Bayfield Peninsula. A GPS should get you there without issue, but screenshot the directions in advance because there are a few areas without phone service.
- Fees and passes: none for entry to the park, but there is a $5 (cash or card) parking fee at Meyers Beach and the America the Beautiful pass is not accepted.
- Where to stay: according to the website, the only camping options within the National Lakeshore are backpacking sites on the islands, which requires you to have a way to get out there. Boat shuttles and boat rentals are available. However, there were multiple people camped at Little Sand Bay Visitor Center, and the visitor center was open and staffed, so I’m assuming that means camping there is okay. Otherwise, if you want to stay on the mainland, you’ll need to book a private campground or a hotel.
- What to do: on the mainland, the highlights are going on a sea kayaking tour (or renting them yourself if you’re experienced enough) and hiking along the lakeshore. Here is more information on the Lakeshore Trail. We hiked sections 1 and 2, for a roundtrip total of 4.4 miles (7.1 km) and about 300 feet (90 m) of elevation gain.
- Other: if you do plan to kayak, know that there’s a decent chance it won’t actually happen. Small watercraft warnings are frequently issued due to rough water, and on days like that the guided tours will most likely get cancelled. All the tour companies allow you to reschedule so it’s best to give yourself a few days in the area so you have some flexibility.
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