Last week, I published a comprehensive guide to visiting Yellowstone National Park, which was largely focused on planning a trip to the park: logistics, navigation, accommodations etc. If you’ve stumbled across this post because you’re planning a visit to Yellowstone, I’d recommend starting there, as it’s much more focused on the big picture.
However, I also want to provide some more specific information and recommendations about what to see in each section of the park… and, of course, share lots of photos. Over the course of this post and the next four, that’s exactly what I’ll be doing.
This post is going to focus on the upper left corner of the map below, spanning from Mammoth Hot Springs in the northwest corner to Norris Geyser Basin and Madison Junction in the west-central section of the park. This section of Grand Loop Road from Mammoth to Madison is approximately 35 miles (57 km) and takes us to some of Yellowstone’s lesser-known thermal features, as well as a geyser that erupts so unpredictably and infrequently that I’ve never seen it happen… and probably never will.
Table of Contents
- Mammoth Hot Springs
- Driving from Mammoth to Norris
- Norris Geyser Basin
- Driving from Norris to Madison
Mammoth Hot Springs
Yellowstone is famous for its geysers, but there are just as many – if not more – hot springs in the park. The heat of this bubbling mineral water provides the perfect environment for thermophilic (heat-loving) microorganisms to flourish. It’s these microbes that lend color to each spring; blue and green shades are from those adapted to the hottest temperatures while oranges and reds are those that thrive in slightly cooler (but still scalding hot) water.
Meanwhile, minerals such as calcium carbonate precipitate out of the hot springs, accumulating over thousands of years to form the travertine terraces seen at Mammoth.
There are boardwalks and a parking lot at the base of the Mammoth terraces (Lower Terraces) as well as the 1.5 mile (2.4 km) Upper Terrace Loop Drive on top of the terraces (here is a map).
I recommend taking the time for both; the terrace looks very different from each vantage point.
Yellowstone is very dynamic. Much of the park lies within the caldera of the Yellowstone supervolcano. With volcanoes comes seismic activity; Yellowstone experiences dozens of earthquakes per day. Most are too small to be felt by humans, but they cause the underground plumbing to shift. As a result, geysers and hot springs sometimes fall dormant while new ones may emerge.
These changes are highly visible at Mammoth; it’s hard to miss the stark contrast between the active and dormant areas of the terraces.
I’ve been lucky enough to visit Yellowstone many times over the years, which has allowed me to actually observe these changes.
Also at Mammoth: Albright Visitor Center (with NPS passport stamp), Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, Mammoth Campground, gas, and groceries.
Driving from Mammoth to Norris
While Yellowstone is home to the largest collection of geysers and hot springs in the world, I think many visitors are surprised to discover how much of Yellowstone is not thermal features. In fact, as we head south from Mammoth, following signs toward Norris and Madison, we (partially) leave the thermal features behind and find ourselves amongst mountains, valleys, and canyons.
After a squiggly ascent, the road enters the narrow Golden Gate Canyon. Be sure to stop at the pullout here to view the small but pretty Rustic Falls.
As the road exits the canyon, we enter Gardner’s Hole and the Swan Lake Flats. As a lover of expansive mountain vistas, this is always one of my favorite places to stop and enjoy the views.
Before long, the scenery changes again and we find ourselves surrounded by trees as the road winds alongside the Gardner River. We also start to see more indicators of Yellowstone’s volcanic past and present with Sheepeater Cliff, Obsidian Cliff, and Roaring Mountain.
And lastly, just before Norris, are a couple of quick stops at Bijah Springs and Nymph Lake.
Also along this stretch of road: three picnic areas and the primitive Indian Creek Campground.
(Though still shown on the park map, Norris Campground is closed indefinitely.)
Norris Geyser Basin
Norris is one of the hottest and most active geyser basins in the park. Over the years, it’s also been one of the most rapidly-changing locations. A few years back, part of the pathway through the basin was closed because the ground was so hot that the pavement started melting! This section has since reopened. However, on my most recent visit a section of boardwalk was closed due to unstable ground beneath.
Moral of the story: watch your step!
From the parking lot at Norris, a path leads to an expanse of hot springs and geysers (here is a map). Most people go left toward the main attractions of Norris Geyser Basin, and this is definitely worth doing. Among the highlights are multiple colorful pools and Steamboat Geyser –the tallest active geyser in the world!
(Unfortunately, Steamboat Geyser’s major eruptions are extremely unpredictable. Recently, they’ve occurred at intervals ranging from 3 days to 3 years. Its most recent major eruption was December 2025.)
During the main phase of its major eruptions, Steamboat sends water 300 feet (91 m) into the air. After, it enters the steam phase, which can last for hours to days. A couple years back, out of sheer luck, my mom was lucky enough to witness the steam phase! While nowhere near the 300 foot maximum, what she saw was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The video below is hers from that day.
While many people venture as far as Steamboat and Echinus Geysers, few continue onto the Back Basin Trail. I personally really enjoy this longer but less crowded walk. However, if you’re short on time this might be the thing to skip.
The Back Basin Trail loops back around to where we began. From here, I recommend one more detour, this time heading right (north) toward Porcelain Basin. The high concentration of silica in the water lends a lovely pastel color to many of the hot springs in this basin.
Also at Norris: picnic area and Norris Museum/Information Station (with NPS passport stamp).
Driving from Norris to Madison
As we continue our journey south toward Madison Junction, now paralleling the Gibbon River, we once again find ourselves amongst the trees. The landscape is still dappled with hot springs, though.
The first is Artists Paintpots, an area of small hot springs and bubbling mud pots. I know that sounds really cool but, in my opinion, it’s not worth the 1 mile (1.6 km) roundtrip hike. There are larger and more colorful mudpots elsewhere in the park so, especially if you’re running low on time, it’s probably okay to skip this one.
The final two stops as we approach Madison Junction are the vigorously bubbling Beryl Spring and the lovely Gibbon Falls.
Also along this stretch of road: five picnic areas, Madison Campground, Madison Information Station (with NPS passport stamp), and exit to West Yellowstone.
Up next: Yellowstone National Park, part II: Madison to Old Faithful
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